From left to right: Aguachile, Caldo de Res, Sikil Pak, Mole Negro and Hilachas. Photos: Chris Emeott
Chef Cristian De Leon brings Mayan-inspired cuisine to Stillwater.
In an unassuming storefront on the Highway 36 frontage road in Stillwater, chef Cristian De Leon is crafting some of the most innovative Latin food in the Metro—and doing it all with a commitment to detail and authenticity. “All of our sauces are made in house. Our tortillas are made in house,” Cristian says. “It’s very labor intensive. We look for all the little details that we can do differently.”
Cristian has been working in various restaurant kitchens around the Twin Cities for more than 20 years, learning from mentors and honing his skills and creativity. “Eventually, I wanted to do something on my own,” he says. “I was looking for my freedom.” In 2022, he and his wife and business partner, Karen De Leon, opened a takeout taco spot, El Sazon Tacos & More, in an Eagan gas station. “We grew really fast,” Karen says. “We opened our second location, El Sazon Cocina & Tragos, in South Minneapolis at the end of 2023.” It, too, became rapidly popular with neighbors and visitors alike, and the De Leons and their team were able to add a small patio and a full bar.
Cristian and Karen De Leon
Still, Cristian itched to do more. “We wanted to bring in his Guatemalan roots and do some Mayan cuisine with a modern twist to it,” Karen says. “We had to find the right place to do it.” The couple visited Stillwater several times to feel out the vibe. “We walked around and got to know the town,” Karen says. “People seemed close and welcoming.” They moved into the former Thai Basil space in early 2024 and spent nearly a year on a thoughtful remodel, wanting to get every detail right. Xelas by El Sazon opened in January.
The new restaurant is bright and airy, with comfortable rattan furniture that evokes warmer climes, plus plentiful greenery. A large patio offers fresh air and sunshine during the summer. Artsy cutouts in the wall behind the bar frame colorful bottles of tequila and spirits. Murals by local artist Jimmy Longoria illustrate the Mayan calendar and figures from Mayan folklore, including a colorful quetzal bird in honor of Cristian’s hometown, Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. (The town is affectionately nicknamed “Xelas,” the name the De Leons chose for their new eatery.)
“In every culture, when you remember something happy or sad or anything—the memory is about food, right?” Cristian says. “I remember especially Sunday suppers with my family, when everyone was at home, and we were just eating. I cook from my memories.” He fuses traditional Guatemalan dishes with French techniques, born of years in formal kitchens. Although the menu evolves seasonally, some popular dishes so far include Sikil Pak, a Mayan dip with frijoles, pepitas and chirmol, served with tostadas; a Black Tiger Shrimp Taco; and Calabaza, a roasted pumpkin dish with a verde sauce. In keeping with Xelas’s focus on detail, almost every element is made from scratch, from the Guatemalan Sausage to the Masa Cakes to the creamy Elote Panna Cotta. Although there isn’t an official kids’ menu, Cristian and Karen—themselves parents of three kids—welcome families and young diners, and can help identify simpler dishes, like a Classic Quesadilla, for less adventurous palates.
Like the food, the bar program is also thoughtfully curated by director Zoilo Ruacho, the De Leons’ third partner in Xelas. Ruacho and his bar staff offer unique cocktails that pair note-for-note with each plate on the menu and showcase fresh ingredients (all garnishes and syrups are prepared in house) and interesting spirits. “Even our brands of tequila and other alcohol aren’t the ones you’ll find in other restaurants,” Cristian says; most are sourced from small-batch producers in Central America or the Upper Midwest. Mocktails are made with just as much love without the buzz—including the Tamarind Punch with zero-proof rum, a house-made tamarindo shrub and citrus oleo.
As Xelas welcomes returning guests and new visitors this fall, Karen hopes diners will come away with a better understanding of the nuances of Latin American cuisine. “Many people have this mindset that Latin food is big portions, big burritos or big chimichangas, and we’re trying to change that perspective,” she says. “We are Guatemalan and Mayan food.”
Xelas by El Sazon
Instagram: @xelas_mn
